Comments for grandcountysips.com Blog http://grandcountysips.com/blog1 Just another WordPress weblog Fri, 29 Jul 2011 22:22:27 -0700 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.1 Comment on Welcome to my SIP blog site. by Administrator http://grandcountysips.com/blog1/?p=1&cpage=1#comment-4082 Administrator Fri, 29 Jul 2011 22:22:27 +0000 #comment-4082 When we talk about survival, we immediately think of water, food, clothing and shelter. While a tent is shelter, it’s not my idea of long-term comfort. Well, what about a cave? Better, but most caves I’ve been in have been damp, drafty, and if you start a fire to warm things up, can be very smoky. Then someone got the bright idea to build a shelter, and a log cabin was born. Much better. Still drafty, hard to heat and sometimes smoky, but better. The question is, if you lived in a log cabin, would you choose to move back into the cave? Or, if you had the choice to live in a cave or a log cabin, would you choose the cave? All pretty logical. So, if someone was offered a choice between a SIP home, comfortable, tight, quiet, not drafty, easier to heat ,or, a drafty, hard to heat stick-built home, why pick the stick built home? Expense? Why, if you did build a home as good as a SIP home, it would cost you at least 30% more than the SIP home. And why pay 30% more for something that’s “as good”? I don’t get it. I think it must be one of those big mysteries of life. Well, the sun’s out and it’s really nice out, so I think I might just get a glass of wine, sit out on my deck, and ponder the imponderable. Have a great day. Steve When we talk about survival, we immediately think of water, food, clothing and shelter. While a tent is shelter, it’s not my idea of long-term comfort. Well, what about a cave? Better, but most caves I’ve been in have been damp, drafty, and if you start a fire to warm things up, can be very smoky. Then someone got the bright idea to build a shelter, and a log cabin was born. Much better. Still drafty, hard to heat and sometimes smoky, but better. The question is, if you lived in a log cabin, would you choose to move back into the cave? Or, if you had the choice to live in a cave or a log cabin, would you choose the cave? All pretty logical. So, if someone was offered a choice between a SIP home, comfortable, tight, quiet, not drafty, easier to heat ,or, a drafty, hard to heat stick-built home, why pick the stick built home? Expense? Why, if you did build a home as good as a SIP home, it would cost you at least 30% more than the SIP home. And why pay 30% more for something that’s “as good”? I don’t get it. I think it must be one of those big mysteries of life. Well, the sun’s out and it’s really nice out, so I think I might just get a glass of wine, sit out on my deck, and ponder the imponderable. Have a great day.

Steve

]]> Comment on Welcome to my SIP blog site. by Administrator http://grandcountysips.com/blog1/?p=1&cpage=1#comment-3635 Administrator Thu, 26 May 2011 03:09:11 +0000 #comment-3635 John, Sounds to me like a very solid plan, and it should be very efficient. The actual heating costs are a little difficult to calculate because of so many variables. How many windows, what size, what U-value, south facing windows, is the house in the shade, is it windy there, how good a job was done sealing the windows and doors, how many and what CF per minute are the vent fans, do you have an efficient whole house ventilation system? As you can see, I am focusing on windows a lot. I had a client one time that wanted to build a SIP home because he had heard that they were so effiecient. He showed me the plans, and he had huge windows in every room. I tried to explain that the windows only had an R-value of about 2, but he insisted. Later, after the house was completed, he complained to me that the house wasn’t as efficient as he thought it would be. While a well insulated foundation, SIP walls and an R-60 roof will just about guarantee a 60% reduction in heating costs compared to a similar stick built home, the other variables will have an impact on how much more your savings will be. I’ll email you an Excel spreadsheet that you can plug in many of these variables and be able to calculate a pretty close approximation of what it will cost to heat your house. Steve John,

Sounds to me like a very solid plan, and it should be very efficient. The actual heating costs are a little difficult to calculate because of so many variables. How many windows, what size, what U-value, south facing windows, is the house in the shade, is it windy there, how good a job was done sealing the windows and doors, how many and what CF per minute are the vent fans, do you have an efficient whole house ventilation system? As you can see, I am focusing on windows a lot. I had a client one time that wanted to build a SIP home because he had heard that they were so effiecient. He showed me the plans, and he had huge windows in every room. I tried to explain that the windows only had an R-value of about 2, but he insisted. Later, after the house was completed, he complained to me that the house wasn’t as efficient as he thought it would be. While a well insulated foundation, SIP walls and an R-60 roof will just about guarantee a 60% reduction in heating costs compared to a similar stick built home, the other variables will have an impact on how much more your savings will be. I’ll email you an Excel spreadsheet that you can plug in many of these variables and be able to calculate a pretty close approximation of what it will cost to heat your house.

Steve

]]> Comment on Welcome to my SIP blog site. by farmhouse http://grandcountysips.com/blog1/?p=1&cpage=1#comment-3634 farmhouse Thu, 26 May 2011 02:02:31 +0000 #comment-3634 im currently building a 2300 sq ft house with a superior wall foundation 6 inch sip wall and r60 closed cell in the roof have a three ton geothermal. ive heard the problems with icf foundation is water sealing it. superior wall has concrete on the outside and insulation in the inside. makes it much easier to seal. i was wondering what my heating cost might be. the house is in mass im currently building a 2300 sq ft house with a superior wall foundation 6 inch sip wall and r60 closed cell in the roof have a three ton geothermal. ive heard the problems with icf foundation is water sealing it. superior wall has concrete on the outside and insulation in the inside. makes it much easier to seal. i was wondering what my heating cost might be. the house is in mass

]]> Comment on Welcome to my SIP blog site. by Administrator http://grandcountysips.com/blog1/?p=1&cpage=1#comment-3340 Administrator Thu, 07 Apr 2011 19:59:16 +0000 #comment-3340 I was talking to a gentleman yesterday, and I was bemoaning the fact that new home starts had dropped significantly, and things were very slow. He told me to hang in there because he believed that after such a long time with few starts, it would not only pick up, but the interest in energy efficient homes would dramatically increase. He mentioned the recent increase in the cost of fuel, and how long would it take before the cost of propane, natural gas and electricity would go up. He also pointed out the recent concerns of nuclear power plants, the need for more electrical generating plants and the possibility of these new plants burning coal or natural gas to generate electricity. The increased demand for coal or natural gas would not only raise fuel costs, the increased air pollution would be considerable. I’ve come to understand that if someone agrees with me, it doesn’t necessarily mean I’m right, but it’s sure nice to hear someone else say what I’m thinking. Simply build more energy efficient buildings and make more use of solar and wind. Steve GrandCountySIPs.com I was talking to a gentleman yesterday, and I was bemoaning the fact that new home starts had dropped significantly, and things were very slow. He told me to hang in there because he believed that after such a long time with few starts, it would not only pick up, but the interest in energy efficient homes would dramatically increase. He mentioned the recent increase in the cost of fuel, and how long would it take before the cost of propane, natural gas and electricity would go up. He also pointed out the recent concerns of nuclear power plants, the need for more electrical generating plants and the possibility of these new plants burning coal or natural gas to generate electricity. The increased demand for coal or natural gas would not only raise fuel costs, the increased air pollution would be considerable. I’ve come to understand that if someone agrees with me, it doesn’t necessarily mean I’m right, but it’s sure nice to hear someone else say what I’m thinking. Simply build more energy efficient buildings and make more use of solar and wind.

Steve
GrandCountySIPs.com

]]> Comment on Welcome to my SIP blog site. by Ricardo Kahal http://grandcountysips.com/blog1/?p=1&cpage=1#comment-3257 Ricardo Kahal Thu, 24 Mar 2011 16:24:54 +0000 #comment-3257 I would like dropping a review and say My business is new at all to your website and like the things I am reading through. Wrote this great subject material. Enjoy returning for more. I would like dropping a review and say My business is new at all to your website and like the things I am reading through. Wrote this great subject material. Enjoy returning for more.

]]> Comment on Welcome to my SIP blog site. by Administrator http://grandcountysips.com/blog1/?p=1&cpage=1#comment-3082 Administrator Thu, 10 Feb 2011 04:17:12 +0000 #comment-3082 David, If the SIP walls are not structural and the post and beam are the structural components of the house, you can just replace the OSB where ever you want. From your description, it sounds like a post and beam structure that is clad with SIP panels. There are products that can be sprayed onto "soft" wood that hardens it up, and that may be the easier way to go. If the SIP walls are structural and support the roof, then support posts (stacked 2X6's or posts) can be placed within the walls to support the roof under the roof trusses. Cut out a section of OSB and foam from floor to ceiling (inside or outside, what ever is easier to get to) leaving one layer of OSB if you can and set in post, using whatever temporary support beams needed until new post is installed. Nail a strip of OSB over the post, and it's ready for siding or drywall. Now that the walls are no longer weight baring, you can patch anywhere. Steve David,

If the SIP walls are not structural and the post and beam are the structural components of the house, you can just replace the OSB where ever you want. From your description, it sounds like a post and beam structure that is clad with SIP panels. There are products that can be sprayed onto “soft” wood that hardens it up, and that may be the easier way to go.

If the SIP walls are structural and support the roof, then support posts (stacked 2X6′s or posts) can be placed within the walls to support the roof under the roof trusses. Cut out a section of OSB and foam from floor to ceiling (inside or outside, what ever is easier to get to) leaving one layer of OSB if you can and set in post, using whatever temporary support beams needed until new post is installed. Nail a strip of OSB over the post, and it’s ready for siding or drywall. Now that the walls are no longer weight baring, you can patch anywhere.

Steve

]]> Comment on Welcome to my SIP blog site. by David Benson http://grandcountysips.com/blog1/?p=1&cpage=1#comment-3081 David Benson Thu, 10 Feb 2011 02:46:43 +0000 #comment-3081 Steve, I have been a carpenter almost 40 years.Recently I have been called to a 20 year old, large 2 story home with vaulted ceilings to repair a window leak.To my surprise the home was never wrapped.(Typar,Tar Paper etc...)Now I have discovered the buildind is a post and beam with sips curtains.Wet and rotted OSB abound.Needless to say the home owner is now looking at a major expense to make the repairs.I am trying to ease his pain by down scaling OSB replacement.My question is; Can I cut the OSB anywhere and replace only the rotted areas without risking structural integrity.OR do I need to replace the entire panel. One wall for example is almost 30' tall.It has a 13'wide x 6'tall window on the 1st floor and 8' wide x 12' tall window including a trapazoid in a gable on the 2nd floor directly above the 1st floor window.There a 4' space between them that is made up with a rotted OSB sip. I hope I have described the situation clearly.If there is any light you can shine on this matter or need any other descriptions please reply to the above email. Thank You for taking the time. David Benson Steve,
I have been a carpenter almost 40 years.Recently I have been called to a 20 year old, large 2 story home with vaulted ceilings to repair a window leak.To my surprise the home was never wrapped.(Typar,Tar Paper etc…)Now I have discovered the buildind is a post and beam with sips curtains.Wet and rotted OSB abound.Needless to say the home owner is now looking at a major expense to make the repairs.I am trying to ease his pain by down scaling OSB replacement.My question is; Can I cut the OSB anywhere and replace only the rotted areas without risking structural integrity.OR do I need to replace the entire panel.

One wall for example is almost 30′ tall.It has a 13′wide x 6′tall window on the 1st floor and 8′ wide x 12′ tall window including a trapazoid in a gable on the 2nd floor directly above the 1st floor window.There a 4′ space between them that is made up with a rotted OSB sip.

I hope I have described the situation clearly.If there is any light you can shine on this matter or need any other descriptions please reply to the above email.
Thank You for taking the time.
David Benson

]]> Comment on Welcome to my SIP blog site. by Administrator http://grandcountysips.com/blog1/?p=1&cpage=1#comment-2570 Administrator Sun, 21 Nov 2010 18:39:57 +0000 #comment-2570 If I were going to build a home again, would I go with SIP’s even if I went smaller? Absolutely. Living in a well insulated, energy efficient, comfortable home, no matter what the size seems to me preferable to the alternative. Also, a smaller home would be easier and cheaper to add a solar system to further reduce energy costs. If and when it comes time to sell, and energy efficient, comfortable home would be in more demand than a drafty expensive to heat house. Steve GrandCountySIPs.com If I were going to build a home again, would I go with SIP’s even if I went smaller? Absolutely. Living in a well insulated, energy efficient, comfortable home, no matter what the size seems to me preferable to the alternative. Also, a smaller home would be easier and cheaper to add a solar system to further reduce energy costs. If and when it comes time to sell, and energy efficient, comfortable home would be in more demand than a drafty expensive to heat house.

Steve
GrandCountySIPs.com

]]> Comment on Welcome to my SIP blog site. by Administrator http://grandcountysips.com/blog1/?p=1&cpage=1#comment-2569 Administrator Sun, 21 Nov 2010 18:19:19 +0000 #comment-2569 When I said foundation, I was talking about the foundation walls that support the weight of the walls and roof. To give you a quick idea of what’s involved, say you have a 30’ X 40’ house. That makes the roof area roughly 1800 sq/ft. Now, if you have a big snowfall, and it weighs 50 lbs per sq/ft, the added weight would be 90,000 lbs. That’s weight added to the existing weight of the walls and roof, plus everything you have in the house, such as appliances and furniture. Today, most foundations consist of a wide footer with a poured, 8-inch wide concrete wall to support this weight, or, to help insulate the basement, an ICF wall, again, using concrete to support the weight. Concrete is chosen for it’s great compressive strength and it’s ability to support great weight. Right now there are three major types of SIP’s on the market. OSB, steel and MGO. Over the years I’ve come to believe that OSB type SIP’s are the least expensive and easiest to work with. The structural strength from a SIP panel comes from the I-beam design, that is, the two sheets of OSB with the foam glued between them. The OSB on edge, with the foam holding them in place is very strong, but not as strong as concrete. Also, if the OSB comes into contact with wet earth, it could rot and loose it’s strength, and the walls would loose their structural integrity. Even the steel SIP’s could rust. I think if the SIP industry put their mind and engineers to it, they could design a SIP foundation wall that would be strong enough, and impervious to the elements to do what needs to be done. Like 2 inch OSB with a plastic coating on the outside OSB with foam between them. A strong and insulated wall that would last a lifetime, and if you wanted to finish the basement, it would be very easy to attach walls and drywall. Steve GrandCountySIPs.com When I said foundation, I was talking about the foundation walls that support the weight of the walls and roof. To give you a quick idea of what’s involved, say you have a 30’ X 40’ house. That makes the roof area roughly 1800 sq/ft. Now, if you have a big snowfall, and it weighs 50 lbs per sq/ft, the added weight would be 90,000 lbs. That’s weight added to the existing weight of the walls and roof, plus everything you have in the house, such as appliances and furniture.

Today, most foundations consist of a wide footer with a poured, 8-inch wide concrete wall to support this weight, or, to help insulate the basement, an ICF wall, again, using concrete to support the weight. Concrete is chosen for it’s great compressive strength and it’s ability to support great weight.

Right now there are three major types of SIP’s on the market. OSB, steel and MGO. Over the years I’ve come to believe that OSB type SIP’s are the least expensive and easiest to work with. The structural strength from a SIP panel comes from the I-beam design, that is, the two sheets of OSB with the foam glued between them. The OSB on edge, with the foam holding them in place is very strong, but not as strong as concrete. Also, if the OSB comes into contact with wet earth, it could rot and loose it’s strength, and the walls would loose their structural integrity. Even the steel SIP’s could rust.

I think if the SIP industry put their mind and engineers to it, they could design a SIP foundation wall that would be strong enough, and impervious to the elements to do what needs to be done. Like 2 inch OSB with a plastic coating on the outside OSB with foam between them. A strong and insulated wall that would last a lifetime, and if you wanted to finish the basement, it would be very easy to attach walls and drywall.

Steve
GrandCountySIPs.com

]]> Comment on Welcome to my SIP blog site. by denieseL http://grandcountysips.com/blog1/?p=1&cpage=1#comment-2558 denieseL Sat, 20 Nov 2010 03:24:40 +0000 #comment-2558 Steve, If you were going to build a home again, would you go with sips even if ypou went smaller? or would you go tick frame? Steve, If you were going to build a home again, would you go with sips even if ypou went smaller? or would you go tick frame?

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